Baptistery & Fountain Resurfacing

One continuous skin, not another coat

Ester resin + Owens Corning matting

Structural crack repair, done right

A niche almost no one else covers

Shows up when they say they will

Regional reach for larger jobs

Nobody wants to call four contractors to find out whether a project is a $6,000 problem or a $16,000 one. Here are real Dallas–Fort Worth numbers, where they come from, and why two honest quotes on the same pool can land thousands apart.

Short answer: Across the Dallas market, resurfacing averages a little over $11,000, with most homeowners landing between $6,000 and $15,500. The number that moves it is interior surface area, not the length of your pool, plus whatever else has to be done while the water is out.

The figure that decides a quote is interior surface area: floor plus walls plus steps plus benches. A typical 16×32 pool works out to roughly 640 square feet. A large freeform with a tanning ledge and an attached spa can pass 900 without looking much bigger from the patio.

Residential pool owners across Dallas–Fort Worth with a shell that's structurally intact but a surface that has failed, chalky underfoot, staining that won't brush out, rough patches, or plaster that's been recoated before. It also applies to HOA and apartment boards budgeting a season ahead, though commercial scope usually adds tile and deck work as a matter of course.

It does not apply if your pool is losing structural integrity in a way that's visible from the deck, a shell that has dropped or separated needs an assessment before any surface conversation is useful.

The ranges above reflect published Dallas–Fort Worth market rates for this trade, not a rate card we invented. They're a planning tool. The only number that means anything for your pool is the one a contractor gives you after measuring it, and ours is free.

Unstated scope. One quote covers the surface. Another covers surface, tile, coping and a pump. Read what's inside each before you compare totals.

What happens to cracks. A quote that doesn't mention structural crack repair on a pool that has a structural crack isn't cheaper; it's incomplete. The crack returns through the new surface, usually within a season or two.

Surface material. Basic plaster is genuinely cheaper on day one and we'll say so plainly. Fiberglass costs more up front and buys a non-porous, watertight surface that holds less algae and takes fewer chemicals.

Who's doing the work. A crew that does this one trade prices differently from a general contractor subbing it out.

Try the estimator on this site. Move the slider to your pool's rough interior area, tick the extras you actually need, and you'll see the same range we'd start from, before anyone comes to your house.

If your pool has already been replastered two or three times, the arithmetic changes. Each coat has less sound material to bond to than the last, so the cheapest option keeps buying less service life at roughly the same price. At some point another coat stops being the value choice. That's usually when people call us.

These are ranges, not quotes, and they can't account for what's under your surface until it's stripped. We also can't tell you a warranty length here. Ask for the specific terms in writing, from us or anyone else. If your pool is losing water, deal with that first: the cost of a leak is not the water; it's what the water does to the material supporting the shell.

Real DFW market numbers, what drives them, and why two quotes on the same pool can be $6,000 apart.

This is the decision almost every DFW pool owner reaches eventually, and most of the advice online is written by somebody who only sells one of the two. Here's the honest version, including where plaster is the better call.

Short answer: If your shell is sound, has never been resurfaced, and you're selling within a couple of years, replaster. If it's cracked, has been replastered two or three times already, or you're running salt, fiberglass is the one that ends the cycle.

Plaster is a cementitious coating troweled onto the shell. It's the default, it's cheaper on day one, and it's porous. The surface has texture, and texture gives algae and bacteria somewhere to hold.

Our fiberglass system is 100% Owens Corning reinforced matting laid into high-quality ester resin and bonded as one continuous laminate across the entire interior. It isn't a coating; when it cures the pool has a new skin. It can be applied over gunite, plaster, concrete, vinyl liner or prefabricated fiberglass.

Owners with a structurally sound shell that has never been resurfaced, on a pool they don't intend to keep long. Plaster will be the lower number and there's nothing wrong with taking it. Anyone who tells you plaster is never the right answer is selling.

Why North Texas specifically changes the maths

The Blackland Prairie clay under most of the Metroplex swells when wet and shrinks hard when dry. Through a wet spring into one of our summers, the ground under a rigid gunite shell moves, and doesn't move evenly. That's the mechanism that turns hairline crazing into structural cracking here far more often than in regions with stable soil. A coating cracks with the shell it sits on. A continuous laminate over a stabilised crack behaves differently.

Autumn through late winter, for two reasons: contractor books open up once the season ends, and the pool being out of service in November costs you nothing. See the seasonal guide for the exceptions that shouldn't wait.

Everything above holds across Dallas–Fort Worth, but weights differently by area. In Rockwall, movement and cracking drive the decision. In Garland, it's the repeat-replaster problem. In Plano, it's usually salt and long-run cost.

Drain and strip to sound substrate → stabilise any structural cracks with staples every 12 inches → laminate the full shell including steps, benches and attached spa → colored gel coat, worked smooth → refill, equipment start-up, walkthrough.

Fiberglass costs more up front. That's the real tradeoff and there's no way around it. It also isn't a fix for a shell that has genuinely failed structurally; stabilising a crack is not the same as rebuilding a collapsed wall. And no surface is maintenance-free: a non-porous finish reduces chemical demand; it doesn't eliminate pool care. If anyone promises otherwise, be careful.

Plaster is cheaper on day one. Here's the honest case for each, and the specific situations where fiberglass is the only real answer.

Own a pool in Dallas–Fort Worth long enough and you'll meet a crack. It usually isn't because the pool was built badly. It's because of what's underneath it.

Short answer: Expansive Blackland Prairie clay swells when wet and shrinks when dry, and it doesn't move evenly under a rigid shell. Crazing is cosmetic; a crack with a clear direction plus unexplained water loss is structural, and filling it does not fix it.

Much of North Texas sits on clay with high shrink-swell potential. It absorbs water and expands, then dries and contracts. Across a wet spring into a hot, dry summer the ground under and around a pool does not sit still, and the movement is uneven. One end of a shell can sit in damp soil while the other is in ground that has pulled away entirely. A gunite or shotcrete pool is a rigid structure, and rigid structures and moving ground eventually disagree.

Crazing (surface checking) is a fine spiderweb of lines spread over an area. No clear direction, no leaking. It's a characteristic of the surface material, not the shell. Cosmetic.

A structural crack generally runs in one direction, often starting at a corner, a step or a depth transition. It may be wider at one end. It frequently comes with water loss you can't explain, and it sometimes continues up through the tile line or out into the deck.

Rule of thumb: if the crack has a direction and the pool is losing water, treat it as structural until somebody proves otherwise.

Filling addresses the gap, not the cause. Both sides of the shell remain free to move relative to each other, so whatever went into the gap, and whatever new surface went over it, gets loaded again the next time the ground shifts. Very often the crack reappears through a brand-new plaster job, which is the most expensive possible moment to find out.

Our crack repair uses a staple system designed to permanently stabilise the fracture. Staples are set into the shell every 12 inches along the length of the crack, mechanically tying the two sides back together so they can no longer move independently.

That's the structural half. The second half is fiberglass resurfacing laminated over the entire shell, putting a continuous watertight skin across the repaired area and everything around it. Together they give the pool back its strength and durability. Either alone is a partial answer.

Owners of gunite, concrete and shotcrete pools built in the 1960s–80s, especially on sloped lots. In our map it concentrates hardest in Rockwall, where expansive clay meets the grade running down toward Lake Ray Hubbard, and shows up steadily across the older shells in Mesquite and Garland.

Sooner than feels necessary. A structural crack that is losing water is undermining the material supporting the shell every day it stays open, and that damage is far more expensive than the crack. If the crack is growing between photographs, it isn't stable.

Direction tells you most of it. A crack running roughly parallel to a wall, or radiating from a corner, a step or a depth transition, is following stress in the shell, structural behaviour. A network of fine lines with no dominant direction, spread evenly across a surface, is the finish itself checking.

Width is the second signal. A structural crack is frequently wider at one end than the other, because the two sides are rotating relative to each other rather than simply parting. Crazing is uniform along its length.

The third is continuation. If the line carries up through the tile band, across the bond beam, or out into the deck, it isn't a surface phenomenon.

You cannot make Blackland clay behave, but you can stop making it worse. Extend downspouts so roof water discharges well away from the shell rather than beside it. Adjust irrigation zones that spray the deck or saturate one side of the pool. Keep the grade shedding away. None of that repairs an existing crack, it reduces the moisture swing that drives the next one.

Not every crack is repairable in place, and nobody can tell you which yours is from a photograph. Stabilise-and-laminate covers the large majority of what we see, but a shell with genuine displacement needs an assessment first. We'll tell you honestly if yours is that case.

Expansive clay moves several inches a year in DFW. Here's what that does to a gunite shell and how structural crack repair actually works.

Most North Texas pool owners think about resurfacing in May, when the cover comes off and the surface looks worse than they remembered. May is the worst time to start.

Short answer: Book autumn through late winter. Contractor books are open, the pool being out of service costs you nothing, and DFW's mild dry winters are good working conditions. The exception: an active leak or a growing structural crack shouldn't wait for a season.

The calendar. Demand for pool work here is brutally seasonal. Everyone wants their pool ready for Memorial Day, so books fill from March. Call in May wanting to swim in June and you're competing with everybody who called in March. From roughly October through February the same crews have room, and you get their full attention rather than a compressed slot between two other jobs.

You aren't using it anyway. A resurface takes the pool out of service for a stretch. In November that costs you nothing. In June it costs you the month you actually wanted the pool.

The weather genuinely cooperates. DFW winters are mild and dry compared with most of the country, and dry matters more than warm for this work. Long stretches of cool dry weather are good conditions. An occasional hard freeze moves a day; it doesn't cancel a project.

The pattern we see: the customers happiest with their timing are the ones who called the week they closed the pool for the season, not the week they wanted to open it.

HOA and apartment boards, because the target is finished and filled before the season opens, which means starting in winter rather than spring. Churches with baptisteries, because that work should be planned around the calendar months ahead rather than handled as an emergency the week of a service. And anyone whose pool is already down to exposed substrate.

Not much, the seasonal pattern is regional. What changes by area is what's found once the pool is drained. On the lake-adjacent lots in Rowlett a winter drain is often when a long-running leak finally becomes visible. In Rockwall it's when the extent of a structural crack becomes clear.

Owners consistently over-estimate this. A straightforward resurface on a sound shell is measured in days on site, not weeks, drain and strip, stabilise anything that needs it, laminate, gel coat, then refill. The refill itself is often the longest single step, because it's governed by your hose bib rather than by us.

What extends a timeline is scope discovered after the water is out: a crack that runs further than it looked, substrate failing behind the tile line, or equipment that can't be left as it is. That's why we'd rather look at a pool in September than quote it blind in April.

A failed surface stops being cosmetic once it reaches substrate. Exposed gunite takes the wear directly, chemical demand climbs because a rough porous surface holds more algae, and staining that would have brushed off a sound finish works its way in permanently. Waiting one more season is usually fine. Waiting three turns a resurface into a resurface plus repairs.

Weather still governs. Our resin system has an application window and crews plan around the forecast, so a hard freeze or a genuinely wet spell shifts days. Anyone promising a fixed calendar date months out, in any season, is promising something they don't control.

Why the fall and winter window is the one most North Texas pool owners should be booking, and what happens if you wait until May.

In a Dallas–Fort Worth August a pool can lose a noticeable amount of water to evaporation alone, and every summer people pay for leak detection they didn't need. Here's how to tell the difference yourself, first.

Short answer: Run the bucket test for 24 hours. Both levels dropping equally is evaporation. The pool dropping noticeably more than the bucket is a leak. The clearest signal of all is loss that continues through cool, humid weather, evaporation slows down, leaks don't.

Both drop about equally → evaporation. The pool drops noticeably more → you have a leak.

Run it twice. Once with the equipment running and once with it off. Worse with the pump running usually points at the pressure side of the plumbing. The same either way points at the shell or the fittings.

Through any of the fittings or accessories, through the plumbing, or straight through the shell. In practice the usual suspects are skimmers, return fittings, light niches, the main drain and its plumbing, underground supply and return lines, and structural cracks through the shell itself.

This is the part people underestimate. Repairing a leak matters not only to save water, heat and chemicals but to prevent undermining the pool's structural components. Water running through and around a shell washes out the material supporting it. Left long enough a fitting leak becomes a settlement problem, and a settlement problem becomes a structural one. The leak is cheap. What the leak does over two years is not.

Anyone on ground that's already wet. On the lake peninsula in Rowlett, high water tables and heavy irrigation mean the usual visual cues (the soggy patch, the greener strip of lawn) simply never appear. Test the water level rather than the ground.

If the pool is losing more than roughly a quarter inch a day in normal weather, if loss persists through cool weather, if you can see a directional crack, or if the deck near the pool has started to move. Those aren't monitoring situations.

Plenty of leaks come down to a fitting or a section of line, and that's a straightforward repair. When the source is a structural crack, the fix is our staple system every 12 inches along the fracture, followed by fiberglass laminated over the entire shell, a watertight surface rather than a patch over a joint that's still moving.

Evaporation in North Texas is highly seasonal, which is exactly what makes summer diagnosis unreliable. A hot, dry, breezy August day moves far more water off an uncovered pool than a still, humid one in October. Wind matters as much as temperature, and an uncovered pool loses substantially more than a covered one.

Which is why the useful test isn't a number; it's the comparison. The bucket sits in the same air, the same sun and the same wind as the pool. Whatever evaporation is doing that day, it does to both.

The order runs cheapest-and-most-likely first: check the obvious fittings and accessories, isolate the plumbing to see whether loss changes with equipment state, then pressure-test individual lines to narrow it to a run. Only after that do we start considering the shell itself. Anyone who opens by proposing to dig has skipped several steps.

The bucket test tells you whether, not where. It also can't distinguish a plumbing leak from a shell leak on its own, which is why we run it with the equipment on and off. And a pool that's losing water fast enough to see hourly isn't a test case, call.

A DFW pool can lose a quarter inch a day to evaporation alone. Here's the bucket test and the signs that mean you have a real leak.

Baptisteries fail in predictable ways, on a predictable timeline, and almost always at the least convenient moment. This is a short guide for facility teams and property committees who would rather plan the work than react to it.

Short answer: Mineral content in standing water wears the surface down; the vessel then leaks, stains, and eventually damages the finished space below it. Plan the repair into a known gap in the calendar rather than discovering it the week of a service.

Why baptisteries deteriorate faster than they look like they should

Aside from cracks and other unforeseen problems, normal use leads to leaks, water damage and staining as the minerals in the water wear down the surface. Three things make a baptistery harder on a surface than a swimming pool:

Facilities staff, trustees, and whoever handles the building calendar. It rarely has an owner, which is exactly why it becomes urgent instead of planned. The person who notices first is usually whoever uses the room underneath.

The ceiling below is your early-warning system. If anyone reports a stain in the room under the baptistery, treat it as a baptistery problem until it's ruled out.

The properties that make the system work on pools matter more here. It's applied as one continuous, watertight laminate, no grout lines, no porous plaster, nothing for mineral deposits to work into. Being non-porous it stains far less readily from exactly the mineral content that causes most baptistery discoloration.

Just as importantly it goes over the existing vessel, which keeps demolition inside a finished sanctuary to a minimum. For most committees that's the deciding factor once they understand the alternative.

Baptistery work is one of the few projects where the schedule genuinely matters more than the price. Most congregations have windows (after a season, between programs) where the vessel isn't needed for a stretch. Those windows are worth building the project around and worth booking well ahead. The alternative is discovering the problem the week of a service, which narrows everyone's options to whatever can be done fastest rather than whatever should be done.

Across Dallas–Fort Worth and considerably further, Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi, Illinois and Kansas. Baptistery and commercial work is the reason we travel; very few contractors in this region will take it on. See the full service area.

Many baptisteries are tiled, and tile is a system of small waterproof pieces joined by something that isn't. Grout is porous, it absorbs mineral-laden water, and over years of fill-and-drain it degrades from the surface inward. Once the substrate behind it takes on water, tile begins to crack or let go, and by then water has been getting past for some time.

A continuous laminate has no joints to fail. That's the substantive difference, and it's why re-tiling a vessel that has already leaked often buys less time than a committee expects.

Two patterns work. The first is treating it as planned maintenance on a known cycle and funding it before the failure, which is always cheaper. The second is a scoped assessment first, get the condition documented and quoted while there's no urgency, then hold that against the calendar until a window opens. What consistently costs more is the third pattern: waiting for the ceiling below to make the decision.

We can resurface the vessel; we can't repair whatever the water has already done to the structure or finishes below it. If there's active damage in the room underneath, that's a separate trade and it should be assessed alongside ours. We'll say so rather than quote around it.

Leaks, mineral staining, and water damage in a baptistery are predictable. Here's how to plan the repair around your calendar instead of around a failure.

Baptistery & Fountain Resurfacing

Decide what touches the finish before choosing the finish.

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